For many winter time is the prime holiday time to follow the sun and board a flight to the south – at least if you have grown up in a part of Europe where winters are long, cold and dark. And yet, to me going north in winter has its own very special appeal. It seemed just natural to make my way to Shetland for the first time at the end of January. If you plan a similar trip to the islands off-season, use my Shetland winter guide to plan your trip!

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Imagine it is the end of January, you live further north than ever before and are preparing for a trip – well – even further north. For years I had dreamt of going to Shetland for the Up Helly Aa festival in Lerwick, a traditional folk fest where men dress up as Vikings and burn a wooden galley to celebrate the near end of the cold and dark winter days. In January 2016 this dream would finally become reality.

This was not my first rodeo – I had lived in and travelled to Iceland in winter before and I knew how to get the most out of a short winter day when outdoor exploring was on top of the priority list. But Shetland was new territory and by far not as touristy as Iceland – so where to begin?

Shetland in winter FAQ

What is it like to plan a winter trip to Shetland?

If you plan to travel to Shetland for the Lerwick Up Helly Aa, begin to plan your trip as early as possible. Even though January is the off-season, most hotels, guesthouses and B&Bs sell out months in advance for the time around the festival. Up Helly Aa is a massive attraction and accommodation on the islands is scarce.

We booked our self-catering accommodation in central Lerwick in August/September, which is just enough time to start planning.

Don’t miss my practical guide to island hopping in Scotland!

How to get to Shetland in winter

You can reach Shetland by ferry or plane, and both have advantages and disadvantages. The plane is a lot faster, but also more expensive. The overnight ferry is a trek but accommodates you on a much smaller budget. In terms of reliability, both means of transport are dependent on the weather – storms and fog can cause delays or cancellations either way.

It’s best not to book last minute and allow at least one day of flexibility – imagine you book your ferry to arrive on the day of the festival and then it has to be cancelled. That said, the ferry only gets cancelled when it gets really bad (like Storm Gertrude-bad).

You might also like: 20 helpful tips for travelling to Scotland in winter

How to get around Shetland

Public transport on Shetland is not necessarily structured for touristy day trips, but rather for commuting. That is why I’d recommend you rent a car. This will allow you to see more of the islands beyond Lerwick and its immediate surroundings.

There is not much traffic and the roads are generally good, so even if you are new to driving on the left side, don’t worry about it too much! Brush up on my top driving tips before you go.

Where to stay in Lerwick

We absolutely loved our self-catering apartment in Lerwick. It was only about a two-minute walk from the Up Helly Aa burning site and 10 minutes from the town centre. There was free parking available on the road and self-catering was the perfect option as the restaurant scene in Lerwick is not necessarily the most thriving one.

Unfortunately, the apartment is no longer available – but there are plenty of other options for places to stay in Lerwick. On my most recent trip, I spent a night at Glen Orchy House B&B.

Roadtrip to Unst, Shetland

Things to do in Shetland in Winter

Many of the attractions, like the archaeological site at Jarlshof, the Unst Boat Haven or the Scalloway Museum are closed during the winter months. Outdoor activities like sea kayaking, coasteering or cycling are not possible (or enjoyable). Much of the wildlife Shetland is famous for (puffins, gannets) have left the shores… So, what do you do in Shetland in winter?

Go for a walk at The Knab in Lerwick

If you are based in Lerwick (which you probably are as the town has the most hotels and holiday rentals available) you can go for a pretty simple but gorgeous coastal walk around the Knab – the rocky nose of Lerwick that reaches out into the bay. If you are lucky you might spot seals hunting for fish in the waves!

Looking for the Essence of Shetland | Watch Me See

Do a road trip round the South Mainland

If it’s too windy/cold to be outside for too long, simply go on a road trip and enjoy the best views from the safety of your car. Many of Shetland’s top viewpoints are accessible by car or only a short walk away from the car park.

Mainland Shetland is pretty sprawling and taking in one area of the island can easily take up an entire day. On a south route towards Sumburgh don’t miss St Ninian Bay and the gorgeous lighthouse at Sumburgh Head. Who says you need glaring sunshine to enjoy the scenery? The crashing waves of the rough sea are just as impressive.

15 Photos that make you want to go to Shetland | WatchMeSee.com

Do a road trip to Northmavine

Sadly we had to cut short our road trip to the Northmavine peninsula due to Storm Gertrude. We only made it as far as Brae, for the stormiest fish & chips of my life…

If you can, go as far west as you can and enjoy the stunning scenery at the cliffs of Eshaness.

Go island hopping to Unst

The third of our road trips led us north – as far north as you can possibly go in Shetland: the Isle of Unst. From Lerwick, we drove north and took two inter-island ferries (to Yell and to Unst) – quite an adventure, but the sailing times are perfectly coordinated.

In Unst, we met glass artist Cheryl Jamieson from Glansin Glass for a cup of tea and a chat about her inspiration.

The highlight of our road trip was a walk across the Hermaness nature reserve where we (almost) reached the northernmost point of the UK! A wall of rain approaching fast from the north made us turn around before we could reach the final viewpoint… but I’d say our view was still pretty decent!

Follow the Shetland Arts & Crafts Trail

As you can probably already tell – the weather in Shetland during the winter months (or actually year-round) is unpredictable and it’s good to plan some indoor activities.

During our week-long trip, we met a couple of artists in their cosy studios and explored the craft shops in Lerwick. The Shetland Arts & Craft Trail is a great place to get started with this.

Visit the Shetland Museum

The Shetland Museum & Archives is open throughout the year – although it has reduced opening times in winter. Here you can learn more about the history and origins of the islands and their people.

Do a Jewellery Workshop

On one particularly windy and rainy morning, we drove to the island of Burra (accessible from the main island via a couple of bridges) to meet Mike Finnie at Red Houss. We had booked a jewellery workshop with the retired architect turned painter and jewellery maker.

It took a few hours and some sweat, but eventually, we ended up with an unforgettable souvenir to always remind us of our trip to Shetland! The piece of tile in my pendant was picked up by Mike on one of his beach walks.

Great restaurants in Lerwick

There might not be a huge amount of restaurants in Lerwick, but there are plenty to choose from for a good meal! This is a selection of places we tried and liked in town:

  • Peerie Shop & Cafe | In the town centre – for a delicious breakfast or quick lunch (toasties, sandwiches, cakes etc.)
  • Fjarå Cafe | By the shore a little out of central Lerwick – for lunch & dinner with a view, and to taste the local beers.
  • The Dowry | A fully licensed cafe in the centre of Lerwick open for lunch, dinner and drinks
  • No 88 | A great lunch spot on Commercial Street in Lerwick
  • Saffron Restaurant | An incredible Indian restaurant on the edge of Lerwick’s town centre

Going to Shetland off-season was just the beginning – this was definitely not my last trip to Shetland. In summer the islands show a completely different side – new colours, more options for outdoor sports and almost endless daylight!

Make sure you check out my Shetland itinerary for summer trips!


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2 thoughts on “A Travel Guide to Shetland in Winter

  1. Pingback: Everything you Need to Know about Up Helly Aa in Lerwick

  2. Pingback: A Quick Guide to Hogmanay in Edinburgh | Watch Me See

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