Do you want to go island hopping off the beaten path? Beautiful landscapes and a fascinating history make the Isle of Rum an ideal getaway on the west coast of Scotland. Plan your trip to the stunning Isle of Rum with this island travel guide.

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The Isle of Rum is the largest of the four Small Isles, which lie just south of the Isle of Skye. The others are Eigg, Muck and Canna. Despite their famous neighbour, these islands fly under the radar of most visitors to Scotland, making them the perfect escape on the west coast of Scotland and an ideal place to experience islands off the beaten path.

I have had the pleasure of visiting the Isle of Rum twice before. I love the stunning scenery of mountains, beaches and sea, the wildlife encounters on land and in the water, and the fact that it’s a largely car-free island.

Only locals are allowed to bring cars to the Isle of Rum and there are no paved roads. Most of the island is owned by the Scottish government (and managed by NatureScot). Only the area around the main settlement in Kinloch is owned by the local community. About 40 people call Rum their home.

There is a small village shop, a community hall for events and a few options for accommodation, which have to be booked well in advance. It may be a lesser-known island among international visitors, but Scottish locals have long fallen for the charm of this beautiful island.

Rum is a popular destination for hikers and wildlife photographers. The BBC comes here regularly, to film the autumnal spectacle of the deer rut. In 2024, the Isle of Rum became a Dark Sky Sanctuary, recognising its remarkably dark night skies due to low light pollution. There is something to see at every time of the year.

This guide contains all the information you require for a trip to the Isle of Rum – how to get here, accommodation options on the island, things to do and the best walks.

Don’t miss my practical guide to using Scottish ferries for island hopping!

This photo shoes the Isle of Rum in the distance and the front of the CalMac ferry in the foreground of the picture.

How to get to Rum

From Glasgow make your way to Fort William and from there follow the Road to the Isles to Mallaig. You can make this journey by car – there is a large free car park near the ferry terminal in Mallaig where you can leave your car for a few days – or by train. It takes about 5 hours on the fastest connection, but you likely need to spend a night in Fort William or Mallaig to match up the train arrival and ferry departure times.

Driving is faster (about 3.5 hours without stops), but there are many scenic stops along the way and the road from Fort William to Mallaig is one of Scotland’s most scenic drives. I recommend arriving in Mallaig in the evening before taking an early morning ferry the next day.

The photo shoes a group of people with camping and cycling equipment boarding the ferry from the Isle of Rum to Mallaig in Scotland.

The ferry to the Small Isles – Rum, Canna, Muck and Eigg – is operated by Calmac. One boat services all four islands and connects them in an ever-changing order – understanding the schedule could be an Olympic sport… The island breakdown on the Calmac website is very useful!

As foot passengers, you don’t necessarily have to book tickets online in advance, but you must purchase ferry tickets from the ticket office at the pier before boarding.

The sailing from Mallaig to Rum takes about 1.5 hours. On the way, the ferry may also stop at the Isle of Muck and the Isle of Eigg, which are just as great for weekend getaways!

Hooked on island hopping? Read up on the best Scottish islands to visit

This photo shows the view of Kinloch Bay and the CalMac ferry arriving from Mallaig in the distance.

Where to stay on the Isle of Rum

Rum has a very small population and most of the locals live in Kinloch, the only village in Rum. The Isle of Rum Community Trust manages different accommodation options on the island. Most of them are located within a 20-30-minute walk from the ferry terminal in Kinloch.

Ivy Cottage Guest House is the only B&B accommodation on the island and has only 2 rooms. They offer breakfast, dinner, packed lunches, and free WiFi.

Rum Bunkhouse is a self-catering accommodation on Rum which offers space for up to 20 people in dorms and has 2 fully-equipped kitchens. You can book individual beds, dorms or even the entire bunkhouse.

This photo shows a tent pitched by the waterfront at Kinloch Village Campsite on the Isle of Rum.

Kinloch Village Campsite is a beautiful place to pitch your tent. There is plenty of space for tents on the waterfront and facilities include a modern wooden shelter for cooking, toilets and hot showers, as well as a freshwater tap and dish-washing sink.

There are two camping cabins on the campsite which offer space for up to 4 people each. The cabins have no kitchen facilities, so make sure to bring all your camping equipment minus the tent and sleeping pad.

For more comfort, book the Bramble Bothy, a shepherd’s hut that sleeps two. It has a bathroom, cooking facilities and a wood-burning stove for cosy nights.

The BBQ Bothy sleeps up to four people but seats a lot more for social evenings. This is a great option for groups with the majority of people camping. If you camp in a large group, you can hire the BBQ Bothy to have a dry, warm and midge-free shelter and social space.

There are two mountain bothies on the island. Both lie about a 3-hour walk from the village in gorgeous scenic surroundings. They are maintained by the Mountain Bothy Association and offer basic shelter facilities. Dibidil Bothy has a wood-burning stove and bunks; Guirdhil has an open fire and a raised wooden platform for sleeping.

Bothies are free to use but operate on a first-come, first-served basis. Make sure to bring your own sleeping pad and bag, as well as equipment and fuel for cooking.

Finally, you could also pitch your tent in the wild. Wild camping is legal in Scotland as long as you observe the rules!

Unless you’re camping I highly recommend sorting your accommodation a few months in advance, because there are so few options.

Things to do on the Isle of Rum

The Isle of Rum is a paradise for outdoorsy people and there is a variety of outdoor activities you can do. But that’s not all…

Kinloch Castle

Kinloch Castle is a Victorian mansion which was built as a summer residence for Sir George Bullough, a textile tycoon from Lancashire. Maintaining the building is a huge challenge, but NatureScot is continually investing in restoration works. Over the summer months, it may be possible to join a tour of the castle, but these are subject to availability.

You can read more about the castle’s history here.

This photo shows Kinloch Castle on the Isle of Rum.

Mountain biking

Lots of people come to the Isle of Rum with their own mountain bikes. There are two tracks that lead from Kinloch across the island to Kilmory and Harris Bay. In total, they form about 11 miles of trail. The smaller footpaths around the island are usually quite boggy, so it’s best cyclists stick to the main tracks.

Bringing your own bike on the ferry is free.

Wildlife watching

My favourite thing about wildlife watching on Rum is that it doesn’t take a lot of effort. Just sitting by the beach on a lazy day, you will see more sea birds than you can name without a guidebook. Up in the hills, you might spot Golden Eagles and White-tailed Eagles who successfully breed on the island.

Even the ferry journey to Rum is a great opportunity to spot marine wildlife. The area around the Small Isles is a popular feeding ground for minke whales and Kinloch is one of the sites on the Hebridean Whale Trail.

There are several hides spread out across the island – the Otter hide just beyond the ferry terminal is a great location to spot otters playing in the shallow waters of the shore.

Most other hides are used for deer stalking. The info panels inside tell you a lot about the deer population of the island, and you might even be able to spot some of them!

You might also like: The best places to see wild animals in Scotland

This image shows the Otter Hide on the Isle of Rum.

Boating & kayaking

If you are an experienced sea kayaker and can bring your own kayak or canoe, the Isle of Rum turns into a fantastic kayaking territory. With 30 miles of coastline, there are plenty of secluded beaches and rocky shores to enjoy the view. Find out more about the kayaking routes here.

Snorkelling

The Isle of Rum is part of the brand-new Small Isles Snorkel Trail, launched in 2024. Don’t miss my guide to snorkelling in Scotland to make sure you have a great and safe time in the water.

Bouldering

On the way to Dibidil bothy, you come across a vast field of massive boulders at the foot of Hallival mountain. As always with bouldering, you need to bring your own mats and make sure you know what you are doing. This website gives an overview of the available bouldering problems, while this video is a great compilation of climbing some of them.

This photo shows my friend bouldering at the foot of Hallival on the Isle of Rum.

Hiking

There is a variety of hiking trails leading around and across the Isle of Rum. Following the roads, you can cross the island on fairly flat ground, while the footpaths leading along the coastline are perfect for wildlife watching. The Rum Cuillin mountain ridge is made up of the peaks of Barkeval, Hallival, Askival, Trollaval, Ainshval and Sgurr nan Gillean.

For a full-day tour try to take in the peaks of Hallival and Askival; if you have more time, base yourself at Dibidil bothy and hike the various peaks of the Cuillin from there.

The route to Kilmory is a relaxing 16km walk and ends at a gorgeous beach looking out over the Atlantic. On the way, you pass Kinloch Glen Waterfall!

For a full list of trails, check here.

Be aware! Trails on Rum are not way-marked, so navigation skills with a map and compass are required if you want to head into the hills.

Get the OS Explorer map for the Small Isles here.

During the deer rut from late September to early October, you should take extra care, as rutting deer can be aggressive and extremely dangerous. Keep your distance!

Even though none of the mountains on Rum are Munros, the weather in the Cuillin can be vicious. Make sure you bring suitable hiking equipment and don’t go into the hills on your own. The next mountain rescue teams are on Skye and in Lochaber, so be aware and only hike trails within your abilities.

This photo shoes the bay of Kilmory on the Isle of Rum.

Other facilities on the Isle of Rum

At the Rum Visitor Centre, you can learn about the island’s geology, walking routes and pick up some useful leaflets. It is located by the Old Pier and is open every day during the summer months.

Visit the Isle of Rum Museum & Heritage Centre with information about the history of Rum.

The Isle of Rum does not have any restaurants or supermarkets, so unless you stay at the B&B, you’ll have to cook your own meals. There is a small, community-owned General Store that sells everything you need for your stay. 

Visit the craft shop by the red phone box for a variety of homemade crafts.

Good to know before you go

Cash is king on the Isle of Rum. Whether you need to leave money in the honesty box for the campsite, want to get a coffee at the General Store or join a guided tour at Kinloch Castle, you should prepare to pay in cash. The village shop has a chip and PIN and offers cashback.

The island has limited rubbish and recycling facilities. Try to reduce the amount of rubbish you produce during your stay and take it off the island again. If you need to recycle something, there are large bins for glass, metal and general rubbish at the ferry terminal.

Scottish weather is unpredictable – even more so on the islands. Bring the right equipment for outdoor activities (good hiking boots, water- and windproof clothing, maps & compass etc.), plenty of warm clothes and dry bags to keep your stuff dry when all goes wrong. The two worst things that can happen to you when the weather is bad, are to be cold and hungry – make sure neither of them happen to you!

You might also like: My Complete Packing List for Scotland + Packing Tips

This photo shoes my friend making a fire at the campsite on the Isle of Rum.

If you’re anything like me, I just talked you into really wanting to go the Isle of Rum… Have you considered going off the beaten track in the Scottish Isles and visit the Small Isles for a weekend trip?


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8 thoughts on “Visiting the Small Isles: Isle of Rum Travel Guide

    • Kathi says:

      It’s such a great island to visit – easy to navigate and so off the beaten track 🙂 I hope you get to go this year too!!

    • Kathi says:

      The B&B would be your most luxurious way to do it – they also offer meals. But really, it’s probably not the right island for her then. It’s bmvery simple/back to the roots style – I love it for that 🙂

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