Did you know that Edinburgh is the second-most popular city in the UK? Visitors love exploring the medieval lanes, century-old closes and the gorgeous castle of the Scottish capital. Even though the city is quite small there is plenty to see and do, whether you are after tourist attractions or local treats. This is a guide to the highlights of the city and how to spend two days in Edinburgh.
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Day 1: Essential Edinburgh
Old Town: Edinburgh Castle & the Royal Mile
The Royal Mile lies at the historic heart of Edinburgh’s medieval Old Town. It connects the majestic castle up on the hill (Castle Rock) with the Royal Palace of Holyroodhouse near the bottom of Arthur Seat.
You could spend all day exploring the Royal Mile, its side alleys (aka. closes & wynds), hidden courtyards & gardens and architectural gems. Some of my favourite places to visit on the Royal Mile are Gladstone’s Land, St Giles Cathedral, the garden at Dunbar’s Close and the Edinburgh Museum.
Edinburgh Castle is well worth a visit if you are into military history and to see the 1 o’clock gun from up close – but it gets super busy, so prepare to line up for entry to the exhibitions.
Top tip: If you’d like to visit Edinburgh Castle, I highly recommend booking skip-the-line tickets in advance to save time. You can also get skip-the-line access when booking this guided tour which includes a knowledgeable tour guide to tell you more about the history of the castle and the city.
Two great viewpoints in the Old Town are the top of Camera Obscura, a museum for optical illusions, and the rooftop garden at the National Museum for Scotland (free).
You might also like: 25 Hidden Gems in Edinburgh off the beaten path
Victoria Street & Grassmarket
With its colourful shop fronts and cobbled paving, Victoria Street is one of Edinburgh’s most photographed streets. At the bottom of the street, you’ll enter Grassmarket, where market was held in medieval times.
Today, the wide square is lined with pubs and restaurants, and also a great selection of vintage shops like W. Armstrong & Sons, Godiva, Herman Brown or Carnivale. Don’t miss the icecream from Mary’s Milkbar!
Around the corner lies Greyfriar’s Kirkyard, a historic cemetery that dates back to the 1500s. Fans of the Harry Potter books may recognise a few names around the graveyard…
New Town
Down the hill on the other side of the Old Town lies Edinurgh’s New Town. Don’t be fooled by the name though – New Town was built in late the 18th & early 19th century!
Princes Street is a popular shopping street with stunning views of the Old Town skyline. Climb to the top of Scott Monument for gorgeous views and wander through Princes Street Gardens.
I also love strolling along Rose Street, a pretty pedestrianised road lined with shops and restaurants.
If narrow stairs aren’t your thing, head up to Calton Hill at the far end of Princes Street. Visit the Scottish National Monument and enjoy the evening sun over the city.
Did you know that many people who originally owned buildings in Edinburgh’s New Town, benefitted from the transatlantic slave trade? Find out more about this here or join a Black History Walking Tour of Edinburgh with Lisa Williams.
Don’t miss out on these Edinburgh museums, galleries and monuments off the beaten path!
Where to eat & drink in Edinburgh’s Old & New Town
- World’s End, Devil’s Advocate or Howies serve traditional Scottish cuisine on/near the Royal Mile
- Ensign Ewart, a great pub with a large whisky selection & live music on the Royal Mile
- The City Cafe, a popular diner-style cafe just off the Royal Mile
- Hula Juice Bar, juices, smoothies and cakes on Grassmarket
- Pulse, a vegan cafe in Edinburgh’s New Town
- 1820 Rooftop Bar at Johnnie Walker on Princes Street
Fancy afternoon tea? Try The Witchery or Colonnades at the Signet Library for an extra-special treat. Holy Cow Lounge at Edinburgh Printmakers makes amazing vegan afternoon tea.
For amazing drinks, make your way to Panda & Sons, a speakeasy cocktail bar at the bottom of Queen Street. It looks like a barbershop on the outside, so don’t walk past it!
Day 2: Edinburgh off the beaten track
Edinburgh’s historic port: Leith
After a day in the buzzing city centre, it’s nice to head a little further off the beaten path and explore Edinburgh’s local neighbourhoods. Leith was once a port area that housed workers from the shipyards and their families. In recent decades though, the area has seen a lot of change, with students and artists moving in, and little shops and cafes sprouting like mushrooms.
In Leith there is really no shortage for you to find things to do. I’d suggest coffee shop hopping around and browsing through the little vintage shops. You could also spend a few hours at the Royal Yacht Britannia, learning about this impressive ocean liner, the Royal Family used to sail around the world.
Top tip: I highly recommend booking your ticket for Royal Yacht Britannia in advance as it gives you skip-the-line access and saves you time of your precious Edinburgh trip!
Outdoor Activities
After a few hours in the urban jungle of Leith, it is time to switch things up a little and see a greener side of Edinburgh. The city has a lot of parks and green spaces and on a sunny day, these will be busy with locals enjoying the sun rays tickling their noses. Here are some options for you:
The Royal Botanic Garden is located in Inverleith, roughly halfway between Leith and New Town. In the garden, you can find plants from all over the world, which are studies to learn more about biodiversity and conservation. This is also a great place to check out when it’s raining, as the glasshouses offer shelter and a welcome change in temperatures!
You might also like: Visiting the Royal Botanic Garden in Edinburgh
From here you can pick up the Water of Leith Walkway and follow it to the gorgeous Dean Village. Spot the Antony Gormley Statues along the way!
If the weather is good, it is worth climbing one of Edinburgh’s many hills. The city was built on several extinct volcanoes which left their marks on the city. The highest of them is Arthur Seat. It takes around 45 minutes to reach the top, but the views of the city and towards the sea are well worth the effort!
Where to eat & drink in Leith
- Roseleaf – a popular gastro pub in Leith
- King’s Wark is a pub by the waterfront in Leith with typical Scottish cuisine. The building dates back to the 1400s.
- Teuchter’s Landing is a pub on the other side of the canal in Leith. On the menu are Scottish classics and seafood, but there is also a vegan menu available.
More Tips for Edinburgh
Great Tours
- Secrets of Royal Mile tour with Mercat Tours (small groups)
- Various small group walks with Invisible Cities – it’s a social enterprise that trains people who have experienced homelessness as tour guides
- Scot Beer Tours are fun – they have tours & beer tastings in the Old Town and in Leith
- The Sightseeing Bus is great for getting an overview and covering a lot of ground in a relatively short time
- Harry Potter walking tour with Katrina
- Food tour with Eat Walk Tours or Edinburgh Food Safari
- Bespoke walking tours of women’s history and queer history with Hannah Mackay Tait
- Go on a Harry Potter-inspired walking tour
Shopping Tips
- Scottish Design Exchange on George Street for art and crafts made by local designers & makers
- Tron Kirk Market on the Royal Mile for local artists and designers
Need help planning your Scotland trip? Book a Travel Consultation Session with me!
Practical Info
Getting to Edinburgh
Travel between Edinburgh and Glasgow is really easy as the two cities are only ~45 miles apart. The fast train takes about 50 minutes, while the bus takes a little longer (75 minutes) but is also cheaper.
Where to stay in Edinburgh
I stayed at Hotel Indigo on York Place, which was the perfect spot to start my walking tours around the Old Town and Leith and get to the cool bars all over New Town. It’s a stylish 4-star hotel and all the staff was super friendly and helpful. It is certainly one of the best hotels I’ve ever stayed in Edinburgh!
You could easily fill weeks with things to do in Edinburgh, but if you’re pressed for time you can really see a lot of Edinburgh in just 2 days!
Have you ever been to Edinburgh?
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Hi Kathi,
I have actually planned a 7 day road trip very similar to your 7 day itinerary starting with Glasgow then to the highlands then to Edinburg in from 30th March to 5th April this year. However, from the recent weather forecast, it seems like it is still snowing in the highlands and we are not comfortable at all with driving in snow/ice road condition. Also, I am not sure if its still feasible to go on walks in the highlands with the cold weather and condition.
May I know what is the weather and road condition like in Scotland now and do you suggest that I persist with exploring public transport options or do you think I should forego the highland portion and spend more time in the 2 cities instead?
Hi Kate, sounds like an amazing trip! To be honest, it’s a bit early to say what the weather will be like in two weeks – it could be that most of the snow will be gone by then. Snow in the Highlands doesn’t necessarily mean that there is snow on the main roads – just to give you an idea, my friend went on a road trip yesterday; it was snowing, but the roads looked like this: https://www.instagram.com/p/BvE515qFGB7/
The cold tempereature is a different issue, but everyone feels cold in different ways. Make sure you wrap up and bring plenty of layers to stay warm! Check out my packing list: https://watchmesee.com/blog/packing-tips-packing-list-for-scotland-in-a-carry-on/ and winter travel tips: https://watchmesee.com/blog/visiting-scottish-highlands-in-winter/ Have a great trip!
HI.. We are planning a trip to Scotland with our family of four. Can you recommend places to stay as a family? (Kids are in college)
Thanks so much
Hi Jennifer, personally I always prefer AirBnBs over hotels or B&Bs when I travel with my parents or other family as they offer more privacy and comfort. If you’d like help with accommodation research or even your itinerary, check out my planning service: https://watchmesee.com/watch-me-see-scotland-travel-consultation/ Cheers, Kathi
Hi, I am planning a trip to Scotland and am loving your blog. I am of course limited on time, and am trying to determine how much time to spend in Edinburgh and Glasgow. Do you think 2 days is enough time to do Edinburgh justice? What about Glasgow? Thanks so much!
Hi Sherri, thanks for your question! I’d say it depends on how long your trip is and what you want to focus on – e.g. cities or nature. If you want a little bit of everything I’d spend 1-2 days in Edinburgh and 1 full day in Glasgow and the rest out in the country. Of course, you could also spend a whole week in either city and see something different every day. If you’d like more help planning your concrete itinerary, you could consider my consultation service: https://watchmesee.com/watch-me-see-scotland-travel-consultation/ Cheers, Kathi
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Oh, that makes me want to go. Well, that and watching Highlander. No, but actually more your images – so picturesque there. Must make a plan soon!!
Yes yes yes – please come and visit! Edinburgh is so gorgeous, but wait until I get into talking about Glasgow 😀 xx